Monday, November 2, 2009

Natural Cosmetics Part 1

Natural makeup is something many ladies struggle with. What do all the terms mean, what is really natural, what is organic, what is certified organic and why can't I find a good for me line that actually performs? It is a subject that has plastered the pages of many skin magazines, beauty magazines and websites alike.

Before I start, let me say, working at a day spa in which has a HUGE focus on natural and good for you ingredients, this is a subject I myself have researched and thought a lot about. Many of my clients ask me what I wear, what I think and what my experience has been. This in turn makes me make sure I know what the latest, greatest and biggest trends are.

This is a HUGE subject to cover. So I am going to do this in 2 blogging sessions.

First, a break down of the common terms seems necessary.

When a product talks about Natural Ingredients, that refers to ingredients that are plant based and naturally derived, nothing man made or synthetic (including fragrances!). No chemicals, dyes or Genetically Modified Organisms added. The ingredient in the product is the same ingredient that came from the ground/tree/plant. The kicker to this is, the term "natural" is NOT regulated by the FDA. So a product line can slap a "natural" label on and it is up to YOU to read the ingredients and know if the product is up to your natural standard.

The term Organic refers to how a substance is grown and harvested (free of pesticides, herbicides and insecticides) and their production must be certified as organic by an Independent Organization. The USDA regulates organic ingredients in personal care products and have set guidelines on how a label can be worded.
  • Made with Organic Ingredients - 70-94% certified organic ingredients, with restrictions on the remaining 30%. These products CANNOT bear the USDA Seal.
  • Certified Organic - 95 - 99% certified organic ingredients, with restrictions on the remaining 5%. These products can bear the USDA seal.
  • 100% Certified Organic - Uses 100% certified organic ingredients and is certified by the USDA and bears the seal.

If a product contains less than 70% organic ingredients, they cannot be called 'organic' and cannot bear the USDA seal. However, they can put an asterisk by the individual ingredients that are certified organic.

The NAUGHTY List...Yes it exist, and to this day there is major controversy on some ingredients. But there are some solid 'no no's' when it comes to searching for a good natural makeup line.

  • Mineral Oil - NEVER should be in a product that is considered natural (or any product, if you ask me). Mineral Oil is a drug store cosmetic brands DREAM. Why? Because it is a cheap alternative to any suitable moisturizer. However, the molecule of Mineral Oil is so large, it cannot absorb into the skin but rather sits on top of the skin, creating a greasy mess that clogs pores and makes every product we put on top of it cakey and oily. This ingredient is in more products than you could imagine. If you take nothing else from this, just trust me when I say this product is not helping you at all.
  • Petroleum - This ingredient is just as bad as Mineral Oil, except has an awful rebound. Petroleum sits on top of the skin like Mineral Oil does, and tricks the skin into thinking it has an abundance of moisture. So the skin's sebaceous glands slow down, to help regulate the production of oil. But, since that petroleum is just sitting there, it is not penetrating the skin and actually moisturizing the deeper layers. So as soon as that petroleum is wiped away, there is no moisture, there is no protection. So after using this product, your sebaceous glands stop doing their job and your skin becomes dry, flaky and chapped. (In which, you go and find a product with Shea butter, Beeswax or Jojoba Oil to restore those properties).
  • Silicone, Sulfates, Parabens, Talc - All these products are on the "up for grabs list". Some people say these are no threat. Some say certain types are bad. Some say in small quantities it is okay. Here is my opinion. If it is man made, its not natural, its not good. I stay away from silicone's because typically they are pore clogging because they are of a higher molecular weight. Sulfates are a detergent substance, they create a product to lather and therefore can be very drying and stripping to the skin. Talc is actually from a stone, a mineral, but can be drying and sensitizing to the skin so that is really a skin by skin basis. AND Parabens. The evil paraben. In a perfect world, I would not use parabens because there is no sure study saying "yes it is okay" or "no it is dangerous". But, truth be told, in this world it is impossible. Parabens are, as of now, the most efficient preservative. I give HUGE kudos to product lines that are searching for better alternatives (because they DO exist). So, I limit them as much as possible and when I cannot I don't stress about it.
  • And lastly...the one kicker for me. If I pick up a product and the first 3 ingredients are Water, Mineral Oil and Alcohol I put it down (and even hide it in the back of the shelf) and WALK AWAY.

I know this is A LOT to take in. I think the above information is the core to understanding what you are looking for in a natural product. There is more, trust me. But if you understand this, you are good. If you want to do some more reading, www.sephora.com has an AMAZING natural glossary. When I get confused, I hop on there.

Next time....Comparing some natural lines! I have tried them all, [unfortunately]. Almay, Neutrogena, Physicians Formula, Clinique, Bare Escentuals, Korres and Tarte are on my list...I have discovered some AMAZING things about these lines. Have another line you want me to look into?? Comment and let me know!

Have any questions?? Comment away. If I don't know the answer, I'll find it.